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Ballpoint needles are designed to penetrate knit fabrics without nicking or damaging the fabric. Bar tack A group of closely sewn stitchs back and forth from side to side a la zig zag that is used to tack a belt loop or similar item in place. This is not a basting stitch and should be repeated several times on the machine to make a very short run of satin stitching. It is also used at the end of a buttonhole for reinforcement. Sometimes used in the point of a V to reinforce. Batiste A woven fabric of cotton or a blend, usually. It is lightweight to medium weight, and sheer, and often used for baby clothes and blouses. It has a delightful hang to it. Batting Fiberfill, cotton, wool, or other material that is flattened and usually on a roll and purchased in precut lengths or by the yard. Uses of batting range from filling for placemats or vests to quilts. The British term for batting is wadding. Bearding A quilting term. Sometimes, the batting used will pop through the holes made by needles used to do the quilting and it looks a bit like a "beard" on the fabric. This is particularly a problem if white or neutral batting is used with dark fabrics. Beeswax If you run thread on beeswax or use a special beeswax holder with a slot for the needle , it will add a coating to the thread to prevent tangling and will strengthen it as well. Bell Sleeve Sleeve that is narrow at the shoulder, set into a narrow armhole and which flares outward like a bell at the wrist. It is not cuffed. Bias Runs diagonally to the straight grain of the fabric. This is the stretchiest part on the fabric. Bias tape Strips of fabric cut on the bias, often turned under and pressed, and used for bindings, facings, or other application where there is a need for stretch or accomodation to curves. Often found finishing the edge of a blanket or quilt. Binding blanket, quilt, seam etc. Encasing the raw edges of a blanket or quilt with another piece of fabric. Binding also refers to the fabric that is folded and used for the encasing of the raw edges. It resembles a bird's nest and is not much fun to remove. Bishop Sleeve Similar to the bell sleeve with the exception that it does have a cuff or band at the wrist. Blade The round, razor sharp portion of a rotary cutter. Also, the cutter used on a serger. Blanket stitch Used to finish the edge of fabric - buttonhole, eyelet, blanket, vest edge, or other seamline. A blanket stitch is usually done by hand, though some sewing machines have a blanket stitch attachment or setting. This stitch can also be used decoratively on a crazy quilt or garment. Be sure and wash fabric that bleeds with like colors or by itself. Always wash a fabric that you believe might bleed before you use it for sewing. Blend Fabric made of more than one type of fiber. For instance, there are cotton blends that sew and wear with the characteristics of cotton, but wash wear, not usually requiring ironing like a knit. Blind hem stitch Sewing stitch that is not meant to be seen on the right side of the fabric, usually accomplished by picking up one thread of the fabric at a time rather than going through the full fabric to make a stitch. The best finish is done by hand, but many sewing machines come with a blind hem attachment and the manual is the best guide for how to use it and produce virtually invisible hems. Block A quilting term. A block is the individual unit of a quilt. A quilt is composed of several blocks. Boatneck Usually a wide, straight line neck the same in front as in the back. Bobbin The piece of your sewing machine that holds the bottom thread the bobbin thread and is placed in the bobbin case. It generally is under the area the needle penetrates and it loops with the needle thread to form a locked stitch. Bobbin case The part of the sewing machine that holds the bobbin. In some machines, it's under the needle plate. Some older machines had them next to the needle plate with a clear lid that slides in order to get to the bobbin. Bodice Refers to the part of a garment or pattern that goes from shoulder to waist. Think of a shirtwaist dress - the part that goes to the waistline usually the part with the buttons is the bodice. In days of old, the bodice was removable from the remainder of the garment. Bodkin A tool used to insert elastic, cording, etc. Handy tool to use instead of a safety pin. Bolt An amout of fabric on a tubular roll or a rectangular cardboard form. The bolt of fabric usually has fabric type, fabric care, manufacturer, and price on the end of the bolt for the consumer to see before they buy. Fabric is usually folded right sides together lengthwise on a bolt. Fabric stores cut their fabrics for sale off the bolt. The word 'bolt' can apply to the cardboard with the fabric wrapepd around it or to the empty cardboard. Usually applied with the heat of an iron. Boning Small, usually plastic or bone in days gone by strips that are used in wedding gowns and other garments such as a corset or in Elizabethan clothing to hold a fit and usually a vertical shape for the most part. Also available in steel. There are several historical sewing sites you can search via Google which discuss boning, materials, useage. Bootcut Blue jean terminology. Flares from knee downward so that one could wear boots underneath. Not as wide as bell bottom flare, though, as it is more subtle and utilitarian rather than decorative. Border print Fabrics with a border print have exactly that — a coordinating print on the border one edge or two of a fabric. Border fabric is often used for skirts, tops, tablecloths, curtains, etc. Box Corner A method for finishing the bottom of a tote bag to give a flat bottom by folding the corners, stitching across the width of said corner, and trimming off the extra fabric. Used a lot with grocery bags and sometimes with pockets. Scroll down this page a bit for a how-to. Box Pleats A pleat with a little more design and movement than a plain knife pleat. Used for valances, skirts, buffet tablecloths, etc. The best way to explain a box pleat is to show how one is made. Broadcloth Fabric made of cotton or a blend almost always that is tightly woven and may have slight ridges, but not always. Brocade Fabric with an all over raised design, usually used in elegant settings such as jackets, upholstery, etc. Buckle Usually a metal accessory at the end of a belt, a strap, or shoes to secure two ends and used as a closure. Buckles can also be decorative, as on the tops of shoes. The buckle is open such that the belt can slip through it and often includes a pin that goes through a hole in the belt to lock it in place. Buckram Strong, heavy woven fabric used for stiffening baseball cap brims and some drapery applications. Many prior applications of buckram have been replaced by using heavy interfacing. Burnout Design made on fabric with a chemical agent that "burns out" the regular look of the fabric and leaves behind a design. Busk Used in corset sewing for the front closure. A post and eye closure solid enough to withstand corset lacing tension. Important measurement when determining pattern sizes, utilizing a tape and measuring across the back and around the bust fullness. Butting Bringing two edges together so they touch but do not overlap. Sometimes you can use a zig-zag stitch to hold two butted edges together. Also known as abutting. Buttonhole A cut in the fabric that is bound with stitching, just large enough to allow a button to pass through. Buttonholes are mostly made by machine these days, but many people do still prefer to make them by hand, using a special buttonhole stitch. Buttonhole cutter Similar to an awl with the exception that it has a flat, somewhat sharp end to cut the fabric between the buttonhole itself. Many people use a seam ripper for this purpose. C Calico Usually thought of as a small printed often flowers cotton or blend used for quilting or applique, garments, or home decorating. Calico popularity tends to come and go, but for quilting, it's always a good idea. Click to see example. Used in sweaters and other garments when woven. Casing Fabric envelope of sorts for en"casing" elastic, a drawstring, or similar material, usually along a waistline, cuff, hem. Elastic waist slacks have a casing into which the elastic is woven. Sweat pants have a turned up casing into through which elastic is encased if there are not ribbed cuffs. Also the channel at the top of curtains through which the curtain rod is placed.
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